Extracts from: A JOURNEY TO AMERICA IN 1834, BY ROBERT HEYWOOD OF THE PIKE, BOLTON, PRIVATELY PRINTED, 1919, One hundred copies printed for the Editor by J. B. Peace, M.A. at the University Press Cambridge. October, 1919.
SUNDAY, JUNE 8TH.
A delightful morning; found the anchor had been let down about half past six. A fine view of Staten Island. The pilot says we are about 14 miles off the quarantine—got Mr. Grindrod to inform my friends per the Royal William, Londonderry, bound to Liverpool, that I had arrived safe.
Many porpoises seen inside the Hook. So calm that we have to anchor to stem the tide. Mr. Bassnett very ill; about two, became delirious. Saw a steam boat I proposed joining at the expense, but Mr. Seaton seemed to think it could not be done without offending the Captain. I ventured to mention it to him, mentioning Mr. B.'s illness. He said he could have no objection and would join us. The flag was hoisted, but either he was previously engaged or refused to assist us. Got into the boat hanging on the side of our ship and observed upwards of 40 sail on each side of us. As we come close to the shore the cow lows. Many porpoises. Got on shore at Staten Island at seven o'clock; stept across the Hercules, an immense steamer; the land quite strange to my feet, the air quite fragrant and the grass delightfully green; a large vine with much bloom. Took tea with fifteen others, very good bread and butter, also turnips, radishes, and strawberry preserves. Walked out and saw many fire-flies and heard all sorts of noises from grasshoppers, frogs, etc. Went to the hospital for a doctor to attend Mr. B.
MONDAY, JUNE 9TH.
Passed a pleasant night, rose soon after six, a most brilliant morning. Called upon poor Bassnett, found him very ill, had slept only two hours, but thought this caused by a powerful medicine. On walking or still more on standing still, I feel as it were the motion of the ship.
Plenty of wood for fires, also many of the houses built with shingles.
Took a boat to fetch our foul linen to be washed at the hospital washhouse. Only four-wheel carriages. Large dragon-flies. 95 degrees in the shade. A couple of oxen drawing a cart. Paid 12½ cents for washing the clothes, 17 articles. For one day's entertainment at the Nautilus Hotel, 1 dol. 75c. Took part of a most delicious cyder, also a plate of strawberries. Found the helm of the steamboat worked ahead, instead of at the stern. A fine pineapple 37 cents. Hair cut 25 cents. Called upon Francis Hall on account of Mr. Grindrod.
At Bunker's Hotel all black waiters, the charges the same, whether one attends the meals or not. Set off to call upon Thomas Dean; found him ill of the erysipelas and Mrs. D. just going into the straw. Complained of business being very bad and likely to be so for the next two months. Rent of the house 500 dollars. Missed my way on my return by taking the wrong turn in Broadway, so that on enquiring I was 2½ miles from the Hotel. On getting in, found the table set out, partook of a little ham, and went to bed, pretty well tired. T. D. cautioned me against over exertion.
TUESDAY, JUNE 10TH.
Rested very well though I had some fear at the beginning of the night. I also awoke, found myself very warm and feared I had done too much. However soon fell asleep. Rose soon after six—another brilliant morning.
Orders are communicated to the servants by signal bells. At half past seven a gong sounded, the same repeated at eight, the latter being the signal for breakfast. A long table with bread, all sorts of fish, meat, cakes, strawberries, attended by eight black waiters. Called upon T. Dean and he very kindly assisted in getting my portmanteau, and also in exchanging my dollars which are at par or 4s. 6d. making 2¾ in my favour. Went to the auction and am told that the greatest part of British goods are disposed of in this way; when once advertised they must be sold as people will not lose their time in inspection; all depends on the scarcity with regard to pieces, therefore requires great care in watching the turns of the market. Took a glass of soda-water made palatable with sweet lemon juice. Arranged matters in my portmanteau. Dined with upwards of 70 persons of both sexes. All sorts of meat cooked in all ways; the peas sweetened as in Italy. Dessert chiefly oranges and strawberries.
Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall. Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning with some thunder.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH.
Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to the shore, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quantity of wood put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circumstances, a shoemaker; built a house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child being dead.
Found Mr. Bassnett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return. Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him; mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful oranges at ½d., also a pine for 10d. Then called at the American Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a glass of wine with him. Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the bag.
THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH.
Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton 150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen who take large quantities of oysters. The grass is cut and placed upon stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted away till frost comes.
Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17 years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B. greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce. Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, etc.
FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH.
Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters. Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's. After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H. not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, spacious and handsome, with gilt pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable; the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the night.
SATURDAY, JUNE 14TH.
Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down street before breakfast.
The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value[29] exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down. Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others. We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both. Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went into a large Quakers' meeting house—both Pilling and John Wood in town, but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky.
Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as light.
SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH.
Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best bread and butter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr. Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H. to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"
MONDAY, JUNE 16TH.
Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it.
Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to present to C. D. and Mr. B.
Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him. Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done it.
TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH.
Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than five, fish (bass) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh ¼ before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars. That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his passage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen—had a good coffin.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH.
About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr. Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a glass of champagne with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the Hospital, passed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent the evening at Mr. Hulme's.
THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH.
Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with mills worked by water from the canal; was a desert only 16 years ago. Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed the college building by Girard's money and on getting into the city entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr. Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr. Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's—12 o'clock.
FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH.
Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore. Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible to stand upon deck.
After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged ¼ dollar, by a zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange. From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round. Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned writing home from Washington and Boston.
Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this country, being so useful in driving away the flies.
SATURDAY, JUNE 21ST.
Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two o'clock; passed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good. Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia.
SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND.
Passed a very good night, not seeing the lightning which R. Crook said had been very vivid.
Francis Taylor called upon us and walked with us to the Capitol, a beautiful pile of buildings though defaced by painting. Heard a sermon Matthew vi and verse 2, in the House of Representatives, a beautiful place something like the nisi prius Court at Lancaster. Each member has his own chair with a small desk before him; this space keeps enlarging from the centre where the Speaker is placed; a large gallery behind open to the public, that on the other side for ladies.
Commenced writing a letter, being too warm to walk and there being no particular object. In the course of the afternoon the clouds began to gather, soon after six there were flashes of lightning, which continually increased with thunder, wind and rain truly astonishing. Set off alone to the Unitarian Church, R. C. nothing minding, and in fact the streams would not have suited his morocco boots. Just able to get along between every flash, found no service in consequence of the storm; managed to get safe back, and afterwards engaged in witnessing the sublime spectacle which continued till after nine; very fortunate that it came on so early as our sleep was not disturbed, but made pleasanter by the coolness of the atmosphere. The staircases to the galleries of Congress and many places covered with tobacco spitting.
MONDAY, JUNE 23RD.
Passed a comfortable night, walked out before breakfast and had a pleasant chat with F. T. During breakfast two or three boys driving away the flies by means of large ostrich feathers. Find that it is not common to sell slaves by public auction. F. T. said it was believed that if made free next winter, one third would die for want; but on mentioning St. Domingo he could make no reply, he said they were a different race of men. At ten we were taken in a coach by Mr. White, M.P. for New York, to see the President[Andrew Jackson]; waited a short time in an ante-room with others, then were ushered into a large room furnished with books and papers. A tall, straight, old, thin-faced man with grey hair rose, and on my name being mentioned he bowed and shook hands. After a little conversation about losing his teeth by attempting artificial ones, which had dragged the remainder out until only his wise teeth remained, we left him, bowing and shaking hands again. Walked into parts of the house or palace; saw a very noble room where about 1500 attend five or six times a year. Rode in the same carriage to the Capitol; and were shown into the Hall of Representatives; a great many members present but not easily heard in consequence of the muttering in the House. Thence walked through the Dome containing several pictures, the Declaration of Independence, Surrender of Burgoyne and Cornwallis, and Washington giving up his Commission. Thence went to the Senate; was introduced to Mr. Clay who could not tell me respecting R. Monks, as the cholera had made terrible ravages last year at Lexington.
TUESDAY, JUNE 24TH.
Got up ¼ before 5. Left Washington at ¼ before 6. Arrived at Alexandria at 7; ran into the Museum till breakfast. The bridge across the Potomack more than a mile long. Got to Mount Vernon at eleven. Very well received by means of a letter brought by R. C. from a Miss Adams of Philadelphia. Shown through the house, saw the key of the Bastille presented to Washington by T. Paine, also the Library as left by W. Then visited the Tomb, a very plain brick front with an iron door more like an oven. Walked through the garden back to the house; partook of some cake and wine.
Some parts of the road very rough; lost our track for some time; very few people, only now and then a negro to ask. Got back just in time to dinner and escaped the rain and thunder being the 4th successive night. Learned that something interesting was going on at the Capitol, as several members were hastening to it. Found the Senate closed against the public. The Representatives' Hall very full and some interesting debates, particularly the notice respecting Lafayette's death, and also remuneration to the families of the French sufferers at Toulon.
R. C. is considered very fond of show—prefers very tight boots, yet has four or five corns on each foot. Thinks we could not do without wigs and gowns in our English Courts of Justice. Wrote to C. D. by R. Crook who will put it into the office at N.Y. Paid for the gig to Mount Vernon, 4 dollars, though the usual charge for a day is only 3. Mentioned writing home to Mr. B. from Boston. R. C. mentioned his uncle Tipping getting £5000 and not spending £500.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25TH.
Got up at six and walked to F. Taylor's; after breakfast enquired for a letter at the bar, then at the post office but was disappointed. Visited the Patent Office, endless variety of models of all kinds. Then to Pishey Thompson who kindly offered to go with me and also invited me to tea and to bring F. T.
Went with F. T. to the Army Office, and saw a great many likenesses of Indian Chiefs; then to the Naval Office; saw the bags containing conquered flags, and also models of ships. Thence we visited the room containing the original Declaration of American Independence; also several treaties containing the seals and signatures of George 3rd and Bonaparte, Louis Philippe, Bernadotte, etc., etc., and what was still more extraordinary, a drawer containing many gold and silver medals, with a most valuable gold snuff box studded with diamonds presented by the Emperor Alexander, valued at £1000; all these things were left open entirely to us, without any other person in the room; this I consider very wrong as leading into temptation and I predict they will soon have some plunderer, either Yankee or foreigner; on going away we expressed our surprise at the want of discretion; they said they had only missed one small gold coin. Thence I drove to the Capitol, visited both Chambers and also the Library which is beautiful and well-furnished. I saw Cobbett's works. On coming to dinner I met my old Scotch friend Rowlandson with a countryman coming out to purchase land. Went again to Congress; heard some animated debates concerning the Indian States. Spent the last evening very pleasantly at Mr. Thompson's where I had the pleasure to meet the Unitarian Minister, Mr. Paulfrey I think, also young Taylor, Mr. Rowlandson and his friend.
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