Extracts from: Across
Patagonia BY LADY FLORENCE DIXIE, WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM SKETCHES BY JULIUS
BEERBOHM ENGRAVED BY WHYMPER AND PEARSON, LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY AND SON,
Publishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty the Queen, 1880
My party consisted of Lord Queensberry and Lord James
Douglas, my two brothers, my husband, and myself, and a friend, Mr. J.
Beerbohm, whose book, Wanderings in Patagonia, had just been published
when we left England. We only took one servant with us, knowing that English servants
inevitably prove a nuisance and hindrance in expeditions of the kind, when a
great deal of "roughing it" has to be gone through, as they have an
unpleasant knack of falling ill at inopportune moments.
Our outfit was soon completed, and shipped, together with
our other luggage, on board the good ship "Britannia," which sailed
from Liverpool on the 11th December 1878.
+ + +
As we went along we passed a couple of canoes containing
Fuegians, the inhabitants of the Tierra del Fuego, but they were too far off to
enable me to judge of their appearance, though I should have liked to have had
a good look at them. They are reputed to be cannibals, and no doubt justly so.
I have even been told that in winter, when other food is scarce, they kill off their
own old men and women, though of course they prefer a white man if obtainable.
At one o'clock we cast anchor off Sandy Point. This
settlement is called officially by the Chileans, to whom it belongs, "La
Colonia de Magellanes." It was formerly only a penal colony, but in
consequence of the great increase of traffic through the Straits, the attention
of the Chilian Government was drawn to the importance the place might
ultimately assume, and, accordingly, grants of land and other inducements were
offered to emigrants. But the colony up to the present has never flourished as
was expected, and during a mutiny which took place there in 1877, many of the
houses were burned down, and a great deal of property destroyed. As the steamer
was to leave in two hours, we began preparations for landing, but meantime the
breeze, which had sprung up shortly after our arrival, freshened into a gale,
and the sea grew so rough that it was impossible to lower a boat, and the
lighters that had come off shore to fetch away cargo dared not go back. The
gale lasted all day and the greater part of the night, calming down a little
towards three o'clock in the morning. Every effort was accordingly made to get
us on shore, the alternative being that we should have to go on with the
steamer to Valparaiso, the Company's regulations not allowing more than a
certain length of time to be spent at Sandy Point. As may be imagined, we by no
means liked the idea of such a possible consummation, and the weather was
eagerly scanned, whilst our luggage and traps were being hurried over the
sides, as a fresh increase in the strength of the wind would have been fatal.
+ + +
A whole day was spent in unpacking the provisions and
equipments we had brought from England, and in putting them into canvas bags,
so as to be conveniently portable on horseback. For the benefit of those who
may contemplate an expedition similar to ours, I give the following list of the
articles and provisions we took with us. We limited ourselves, I may say en
passant, to such things as were absolutely indispensable, the disadvantages
arising from being burdened with unnecessary luggage on such a trip being
self-evident:—Two small tents (tentes d'abri), 2 hatchets, 1 pail, 1
iron pot for cooking, 1 frying-pan, 1 saucepan, biscuits, coffee, tea, sugar,
flour, oatmeal, preserved milk, and a few tins of butter, 2 kegs of whisky.
To the above we added a sack of yerba maté, of which herb we
all grew so fond that we ultimately used it to the complete exclusion of tea
and coffee, although at first we by no means agreed with the enthusiastic
description of its merits given by Mr. B., at whose recommendation we had taken
it.
Our personal outfit consisted, in addition to a few changes
of woollen underclothing, in a guanaco-fur mantle, a rug or two, a sheath-knife
and revolver; besides, of course, the guns and rifles we had brought for
sporting purposes. The cartridges for the latter, of which we had a great
number, formed the heaviest item of weight; but notwithstanding the care we had
used in our calculations, so as not to take more provisions than we wanted, the
goodly pile which was formed when all our luggage was heaped together was
rather alarming, and we found that twelve horses at least would be required to
carry it. Fortunately we were able to procure three mules, who, between them,
carried more than six horses could have done, without, moreover, suffering half
as much as the latter in condition from fatigue, or the severe heat which we
occasionally encountered.
+ + +
After breakfast the horses were saddled, and taking some
sugar, tobacco, and other articles for bartering purposes, we set out for the
Indian camp, accompanied by Gregorio and Guillaume. I'Aria and Storer were left
in charge of our camp, and Francisco went off with the dogs towards Cape
Gregorio, in the hope of falling in with some stray ostrich or guanaco. The
weather was fine, and for once we were able to rejoice in the absence of the
rough winds which were our daily annoyance. We had not gone far when we saw a
rider coming slowly towards us, and in a few minutes we found ourselves in the
presence of a real Patagonian Indian. We reined in our horses when he got close
to us, to have a good look at him, and he doing the same, for a few minutes we
stared at him to our hearts' content, receiving in return as minute and careful
a scrutiny from him. Whatever he may have thought of us, we thought him a
singularly unprepossessing object, and, for the sake of his race, we hoped an
unfavourable specimen of it. His dirty brown face, of which the principal
feature was a pair of sharp black eyes, was half-hidden by tangled masses of
unkempt hair, held together by a handkerchief tied over his forehead, and his
burly body was enveloped in a greasy guanaco-capa, considerably the worse for
wear. His feet were bare, but one of his heels was armed with a little wooden
spur, of curious and ingenious handiwork. Having completed his survey of our
persons, and exchanged a few guttural grunts with Gregorio, of which the
purport was that he had lost some horses and was on their search, he galloped
away, and, glad to find some virtue in him, we were able to admire the easy
grace with which he sat his well-bred looking little horse, which, though
considerably below his weight, was doubtless able to do its master good
service.
Continuing our way we presently observed several mounted
Indians, sitting motionless on their horses, like sentries, on the summit of a
tall ridge ahead of us, evidently watching our movements. At our approach they
disappeared over the ridge, on the other side of which lay their
camping-ground. Cantering forward we soon came in sight of the entire Indian
camp, which was pitched in a broad valley-plain, flanked on either side by
steep bluffs, and with a little stream flowing down its centre. There were
about a dozen big hide tents, in front of which stood crowds of men and women,
watching our approach with lazy curiosity. Numbers of little children were
disporting themselves in the stream, which we had to ford in order to get to
the tents. Two Indians, more inquisitive than their brethren, came out to meet
us, both mounted on the same horse, and saluted us with much grinning and
jabbering. On our arrival in the camp we were soon encircled by a curious
crowd, some of whose number gazed at us with stolid gravity, whilst others
laughed and gesticulated as they discussed our appearance in their harsh
guttural language, with a vivacious manner which was quite at variance with the
received traditions of the solemn bent of the Indian mind. Our accoutrements
and clothes seemed to excite great interest, my riding-boots in particular
being objects of attentive examination, and apparently of much serious
speculation. At first they were content to observe them from a distance, but
presently a little boy was delegated by the elders, to advance and give them a
closer inspection. This he proceeded to do, coming towards me with great
caution, and when near enough, he stretched out his hand and touched the boots
gently with the tips of his fingers. This exploit was greeted with roars of
laughter and ejaculations, and emboldened by its success, many now ventured to
follow his example, some enterprising spirits extending their researches to the
texture of my ulster, and one even going so far as to take my hand in his,
whilst subjecting a little bracelet I wore to a profound and exhaustive
scrutiny.
INDIAN CAMP.
Whilst they were thus occupied I had leisure to observe
their general appearance. I was not struck so much by their height as by their
extraordinary development of chest and muscle. As regards their stature, I do
not think the average height of the men exceeded six feet, and as my husband
stands six feet two inches I had a favourable opportunity for forming an
accurate estimate. One or two there were, certainly, who towered far above him,
but these were exceptions. The women were mostly of the ordinary height, though
I noticed one who must have been quite six feet, if not more. The features of
the pure-bred Tehuelche are extremely regular, and by no means unpleasant to
look at. The nose is generally aquiline, the mouth well shaped and beautified by
the whitest of teeth, the expression of the eye is intelligent, and the form of
the whole head affords a favourable index to their mental capabilities. These
remarks do not apply to the Tehuelches in whose veins there is a mixture of
Araucanian or Fuegian blood. The flat noses, oblique eyes, and badly
proportioned figures of the latter make them most repulsive objects, and they
are as different from a pure-bred Tehuelche in every respect as
"Wheel-of-Fortune" from an ordinary carthorse. Their hair is long and
coarse, and is worn parted in the middle, being prevented from falling over
their faces by means of a handkerchief, or fillet of some kind, tied round the
forehead. They have naturally little hair on the face, and such growth as may
appear is carefully eradicated, a painful operation, which many extend even to
their eyebrows. Their dress is simple, and consists of a "chiripá," a
piece of cloth round the loins, and the indispensable guanaco capa, which is
hung loosely over the shoulders and held round the body by the hand, though it
would obviously seem more convenient to have it secured round the waist with a
belt of some kind. Their horse-hide boots are only worn, for reasons of
economy, when hunting. The women dress like the men except as regards the
chiripá, instead of which they wear a loose kind of gown beneath the capa,
which they fasten at the neck with a silver brooch or pin. The children are
allowed to run about naked till they are five or six years old, and are then
dressed like their elders. Partly for ornament, partly also as a means of
protection against the wind, a great many Indians paint their faces, their
favourite colour, as far as I could see, being red, though one or two I
observed had given the preference to a mixture of that colour with black, a
very diabolical appearance being the result of this combination.
The Tehuelches are a race that is fast approaching
extinction, and even at present it scarcely numbers eight hundred souls. They
lead a rambling nomadic existence, shifting their camping places from one
region to another, whenever the game in their vicinity gets shy or scarce. It
is fortunate for them that the immense numbers of guanaco and ostriches makes
it an easy matter for them to find subsistence, as they are extremely lazy,
and, plentiful as game is around them, often pass two or three days without
food rather than incur the very slight exertion attendant on a day's hunting.
But it is only the men who are cursed or blessed with this
indolent spirit. The women are indefatigably industrious. All the work of
Tehuelche existence is done by them except hunting. When not employed in
ordinary household work they busy themselves in making guanaco capas, weaving
gay-coloured garters and fillets for the hair, working silver ornaments, and so
forth. Not one of their least arduous tasks is that of collecting firewood,
which, always a scarce article, becomes doubly hard to find, except by going
great distances, when they camp long in one place.
+ + +
Gregorio had seen a herd of guanacos at the far end of the
plain over which the chase had taken place, and thither we accordingly rode.
After half an hour's galloping, we reached its limit, finding below a broad
valley broken up into various depressions and hillocks. At the base of one of
the latter we saw a small herd of guanaco, within range of which, by dint of
careful stalking, we presently managed to come. Two fortunate shots brought a
couple of their number down, and luckily both turned out to be quite healthy.
Under the skilful manipulation of Gregorio and Francisco, in a marvellously
short space of time they were cut up, and the meat having been distributed
among our various saddles, heavily laden, we turned homewards.
GUANACOS.
The way back seemed terribly long, now that we had no longer
the excitement of hunting to shorten the time; and it seemed quite incredible
that we had gone the distance we had been, when, towards sunset, after a cold
and weary ride, we at last stood on the edge of the plain which overlooked the
valley where lay our home for the nonce.
The evening had turned out fine, the boisterous wind which
had annoyed us so much in the daytime had died away, and the sky was now bright
and clear. Through the branches of the beech trees I could catch a glimpse of
our camp, with its white tents just peeping over the green bushes, and a thin
column of blue smoke rising up into the air, pleasantly suggestive of warm tea
and other comforts awaiting us. Farther on, in the long green grass of the
valley, which was now glowing under the last rays of the sun, were our horses,
some grazing, others lying stretched out, lazily enjoying their day's respite
from work, whilst the colts and fillies, as is their wont at sundown, were
frisking about and kicking up their heels in all the exuberance of youth,
unconscious as yet of heavy packs and sharp spurs. Whatever special character
the peaceful scene might otherwise want was fully supplied by the picturesquely
wild appearance of my companions, as, eschewing contemplation, and anticipating
dinner, they rode quickly ahead towards the camp on their shaggy, sturdy
horses, their bodies muffled in the graceful guanaco robe, and huge pieces of
red raw meat dangling on either side of their saddles, followed by the
blood-stained hounds, who seemed thoroughly tired after their hard day's work.
But whatever country one is in, whatever scenes one may be
among—in one's own cosy snuggery in England, or in the bleak steppes of
Patagonia—there is a peculiar sameness in the feeling that comes over one
towards the hours of evening, and which inevitably calls up the thought, It
must be getting near dinner-time. Yielding to this admonition, which to-day was
by no means less plain than usual, I quitted my eyrie and rode down to the
camp.
When I got there I found preparations for an ample meal in
full swing. Ingeniously spitted on a wooden stave, the whole side of a guanaco
was roasting before a blazing fire, and in the pot a head of the same animal
was yielding its substance towards the production of what I was assured would
turn out an excellent soup. At dinner-time I was able practically to confirm
this assurance; a better broth cannot be concocted than that obtained from such
a guanaco head, with the addition of rice, dried vegetables, chilis, etc. But,
at the risk of incurring the charge of digressing too much on the subject of
eating, I must pay a tribute to the delicacy of a peculiar morsel in the
guanaco, which we called "Fat-behind-the-Eye," and which is, in fact,
a piece of fat situated as indicated by its name. The tongue and the brain are
rare tit-bits, but they must yield in subtle savouriness to the aforesaid bonne-bouche.
Having once tasted it, till the end of our trip guanaco head formed a standing
item in our daily messes, and whatever other culinary novelties we discussed,
and they were as numerous as strange, "Fat-behind-the-eye" always
retained its supremacy in our affections as the ne plus ultra of pampa
delicacies.
+ + +
Next morning, the horses being all ready, we lost no time in
springing into the saddle, leaving Storer to take charge of the camp, much to
his alarm, and in spite of his earnest remonstrance. The poor man vainly
protested that, were the Indians to discover our retreat, he would be perfectly
powerless to prevent their pillaging the whole camp, especially as his
ignorance of their "jargon," as he scornfully termed the Tehuelche
language, would place him in a most helpless position. Regardless of his
arguments and imploring looks we rode away, determining to risk the improbable
intrusion of the Indians, whose camp lay at least twenty miles distant from our
own. For about half an hour we followed Gregorio and the Chilian along a line
of broken hillocks, after which, calling a halt, we sent forward Guillaume and
I'Aria to commence the first and most distant proceedings of the circle. They
departed at a brisk canter, and it was not long before several rising columns
of smoke testified that they were already busily engaged. The next to compose
the centre circle were my husband, François, and Mr. B., shortly after
supported on the right by the Chilian and my brother. Immediately on their left
Gregorio and myself commenced operations, and soon a distinct circle of fires
might be seen springing quickly up from all points. I could not help being
greatly impressed with the novel sight now before me. From the high plain we
were on I could look over miles and miles of untrodden desert land, where
countless herds of guanaco were roaming in peaceful lazy ease. In the distance
towered the peaks of the Andes, wrapped in their cloak of mystery, lonely and
unexplored. The huge columns of smoke and the lurid flames of the circle-fires
lent a wild appearance to the thrilling scene, to which the frightened knots of
guanacos, which were hurrying to escape from the circle and the eager galloping
horsemen, lent additional active animation.
For some time Gregorio and I rode slowly and silently on our
way, when a sudden unexpected bound which my horse gave all but unseated me.
"Avestruz! Avestruz!" shouted Gregorio, and turned his horse with a
quick movement. "Choo! choo! Plata!" I cry to the dog who followed at
my horse's heels, as a fine male ostrich scudded away towards the hills we had
just left with the speed of lightning. Plata has sighted him, and is straining
every limb to reach the terrified bird. He is a plucky dog and a fleet one, but
it will take him all his time to come alongside that great raking ostrich as he
strides away in all the conscious pride of his strength and speed. "We shall
lose him!" I cry, half mad with excitement, spurring my horse, who is
beginning to gasp and falter as the hill up which we are struggling grows
steeper and steeper. But the ostrich suddenly doubles to the left, and
commences a hurried descent. The cause is soon explained, for in the direction
towards which he has been making a great cloud of smoke rises menacingly in his
path, and, baulked of the refuge he had hoped
to find amidst the hills, the great bird is forced to alter his course, and
make swiftly for the plains below. But swiftly as he flies along, so does
Plata, who finds a down-hill race much more suited to his splendid shoulders
and rare stride. Foot by foot he lessens the distance that separates him from
his prey, and gets nearer and nearer to the fast sinking, fast tiring bird.
Away we go, helter-skelter down the hill, unchecked and undefeated by the
numerous obstacles that obstruct the way. Plata is alongside the ostrich, and
gathers himself for a spring at the bird's throat. "He has him, he has
him!" I shout to Gregorio, who does not reply, but urges his horse on with
whip and spur. "Has he got him, though?" Yes—no—the ostrich with a
rapid twist has shot some thirty yards ahead of his enemy, and whirling round,
makes for the hills once more. And now begins the struggle for victory. The
ostrich has decidedly the best of it, for Plata, though he struggles gamely,
does not like the uphill work, and at every stride loses ground. There is
another fire on the hill above, but it lies too much to the left to attract the
bird's attention, who has evidently a safe line of escape in view in that
direction. On, on we press; on, on flies the ostrich; bravely and gamely
struggles in its wake poor Plata.
"Can he stay?" I cry to Gregorio, who smiles and nods his head. He is
right, the dog can stay, for hardly have the words left my lips when, with a
tremendous effort, he puts on a spurt, and races up alongside the ostrich. Once
more the bird points for the plain; he is beginning to falter, but he is great
and strong, and is not beaten yet. It will take all Plata's time and cunning to
pull that magnificent bird to the ground, and it will be a long fierce struggle
ere the gallant creature yields up his life. Unconscious of anything but the
exciting chase before me, I am suddenly disagreeably reminded that there is
such a thing as caution, and necessity to look where you are going to, for,
putting his foot in an unusually deep tuca-tuca hole, my little horse comes
with a crash upon his head, and turns completely over on his back, burying me
beneath him in a hopeless muddle. Fortunately, beyond a shaking, I am unhurt,
and remounting, endeavour to rejoin the now somewhat distant chase. The
ostrich, Gregorio, and the dog have reached the plain, and as I gallop quickly
down the hill I can see that the bird has begun doubling. This is a sure sign
of fatigue, and shows that the ostrich's strength is beginning to fail him. Nevertheless
it is a matter of no small difficulty for one dog to secure his prey, even at
this juncture, as he cannot turn and twist about as rapidly as the ostrich. At
each double the bird shoots far ahead of his pursuer, and gains a considerable
advantage. Away across the plain the two animals fly, whilst I and Gregorio
press eagerly in their wake. The excitement grows every moment more intense,
and I watch the close struggle going on with the keenest interest. Suddenly the
stride of the bird grows slower, his doubles become more frequent, showers of
feathers fly in every direction as Plata seizes him by the tail, which comes
away in his mouth. In another moment the dog has him by the throat, and for a
few minutes nothing can be distinguished but a gray struggling heap. Then
Gregorio dashes forward and throws himself off his horse, breaks the bird's
neck, and when I arrive upon the scene the struggle is over. The run had lasted
for twenty-five minutes.
THE LAST DOUBLE.
Our dogs and horses were in a most pitiable state. Poor
Plata lay stretched on the ground with his tongue, hot and fiery, lolling out
of his mouth, and his sides going at a hundred miles an hour. The horses, with
their heads drooped till they almost touched the ground, and their bodies
streaming with perspiration, presented a most pitiable sight, and while
Gregorio disembowelled and fastened the ostrich together, I loosened their
girths, and led them to a pool hard by to drink. At length they became more
comfortable, and as soon as they seemed in a fit state to go on, Gregorio and I
lifted the huge bird on to his horse, and tied it across the animal's withers.
Encumbered thus, Gregorio turned to depart in the direction of the camp,
followed by Plata, while I went in an opposite direction in search of my
companions down in the plain. It was not long before I distinguished in the far
distance an ostrich coming straight towards me, closely followed by a dog and
two horsemen. Galloping to meet them, I was the means of turning the bird into
"Peaché's" jaws, for such was the name of I'Aria's dog. The two
horsemen turned out to be the old fellow in question and my brother, who
arrived, hot and full of excitement, on the scene just as I was throwing myself
from my horse to prevent Peaché from tearing the bird to pieces. Leaving I'Aria
to complete the hunter's work, my brother and I rode slowly back towards our
camp, discussing the merits of our horses, dogs, and the stamina of the two ostriches
we had slain. So engrossed were we that we could hardly believe our eyes when
we came suddenly in full view of our snug little retreat, but, nevertheless, we
were very glad to dismount and refresh ourselves with the hot coffee which we
found old Storer had ready waiting.
One by one the other hunters dropped in. They had all been
successful, with the exception of Guillaume; and as we stood grouped round the
five large ostriches lying on the ground, we congratulated ourselves on our
good fortune, and on the excellent sport we had had. At dinner we passed
judgment on ostrich-meat, which we now really tasted for the first time, for
what we had obtained from the Indian camp had been dry and unpalatable. We
thought it excellent; the breast and wings are particularly good; the latter
much resemble pheasant.
+ + +
On our arrival we found active preparations going on in the
culinary department, and every one very busily engaged. Three huge fires blazed
merrily in front of my tent, and a little farther off a succession of smaller
ones indicated the spot where the cooks were employed in preparing dinner. Over
one of these hung a pot of soup, carefully superintended by my husband; at
another Storer was watching and turning the roasting ribs of a guanaco, while at
a third Gregorio occupied himself in frying a rich steak of ostrich, and
roasting three or four of their wings as a bonne bouche, which was to
succeed the roast. 169 Nor were Guillaume or I'Aria
idle, as the goodly pile of firewood that lay stacked up near each fire spoke
volumes for their activity and energy. After we had unsaddled our horses and
turned them loose to join their companions hard by, we refreshed ourselves with
maté, and then proceeded to take part in the general work and arrangement of the
camp. Mysteriously promising us something extra good in the shape of a new
dish, François retired into his tent, dragging after him the ostrich which we
had just killed. The result of his efforts, he assured us, would produce a
pleasant surprise, and an agreeable change in the monotony of our daily diet.
Though full of curiosity as to what that result might prove, we judged it best
to leave him alone, remembering the proverb that "Too many cooks spoil a
dish." Collecting the rows of pack-saddles and articles of riding gear, I
proceeded to arrange them tidily, together with the numerous sacks and baggage,
in a corner of Storer's tent, and then gathering up a roll of guanaco furs,
turned my attention to the making up of our beds. On the pampa it had always been
a matter of some difficulty to discover ground smooth enough whereon to lay out
the beds, on account of the rough, uneven nature of the plains; but on this
occasion I had no cause to 170 grumble, for beneath the
lofty spreading beech trees the smooth, velvety, mossy turf afforded the
softest and most luxurious of feather beds in the world. Our couches were
simple enough, as doubtless the reader imagines. The ground supplied the want
of a bedstead or mattress, a single blanket occupied the place of a sheet, and
our guanaco capas served as covering, being remarkable for their great warmth.
With our saddles for our pillows, a complete and final touch was given to the
whole arrangement, and on these hard beds, tired with our day's exertions, we
would sleep as soundly and comfortably as though they were the most luxurious
spring mattresses imaginable.
The beds arranged to my satisfaction, I next proceeded to go
the round of the camp to see if everything was in order, on finding which to be
the case, with a sigh of relief I felt that my work was over for the day, and
the time for rest arrived.
Roughing it may be all very well in theory, but it is not so
easy in practice. After a long tiring march, when you have been in the saddle
twelve or thirteen hours under a hot sun, it is by no means a light task, on
the arrival at your journey's end, to have to unload your horses, pitch your
tents, cook your dinner, clean your saddles and 171
bridles, unpack and remove the baggage, and place everything in order and
neatness, while it occupies a long and weary time. In England, on your return
every day from hunting, you come home tired and weary, no doubt, but it is to a
cosy hunting-box, where a warm room, a blazing fire, an easy arm-chair await
you, with servants in plenty to attend to your wants, a refreshing hot bath,
and the luxury of a clean change of clothes. But all this is not forthcoming on
the pampa, and before you can rest, the whole business I have mentioned has to
be gone through, everybody, no matter who it is, taking his or her share of
work, while the thought of fatigue must be banished, and every one must put his
shoulder to the wheel, and undertake and accomplish his separate task
cheerfully and willingly. Only by so doing can things be kept going in the brisk
orderly manner they should.
Our camp had been pitched close to the bank of a lovely
little mountain stream, which made its appearance from out the thick woods that
rose to a great height behind us. The sound of its splashing waters filled me
with an irresistible longing for a plunge. Accordingly, armed with a rough
towel, I proceeded to follow its winding course upwards, and through the dense
foliage of 172 the beech trees I could make out its
silver stream descending like a white streak from an immense height. Presently
I arrived at a spot where, fed by a small cascade, a clear cool pool of water
presented a most convenient and inviting appearance for a bath. I lost no time
in undressing and indulging in the luxury of a plunge, which greatly refreshed
and invigorated me after the long tiring day I had undergone.
On my return to the camp I found that dinner was quite
ready. Nine hungry human beings, and nine still hungrier dogs, require a good
substantial meal. Our menu that night was neither mean nor small. As it
may interest my readers, I append it:—
Soup.—Guanaco Head, slices of Ostrich, and rice.—Roast ribs
of Guanaco.
Fried Ostrich Picane. (Back of the ostrich, resembling a
very rich Rumpsteak).
Roast Goose and Ducks.
Ostrich Wings.
Ostrich Liver and fat (consisting of square pieces of
ostrich liver and fat, toasted on a stick).
Blood Pudding.
Dessert.—Califatés, Coffee, Maté, Tea, Biscuits.
The blood-pudding proved to be the dish about which François
had observed so much 173 secrecy and mystery. It was certainly
exceedingly good, and we were loud in praise of its merits. The ostrich liver
and fat, a new dish also, was most acceptable, and that night we drank the
health of François in a glass of whisky and water all round. Dinner over, we
replenished the numerous fires that burned in a semicircle in front of our
camp; and then, tired and weary, we sought our couches, and, canopied o'erhead
by the rustling trees, with the bright moonlight shining down upon us, slept as
sound and contented a sleep as the fatigues we had undergone entitled us to.
